Vacheron Constantin adds a new salmon dialed, platinum cased Perpetual Calendar Chronograph to their Traditionnelle collection.

Press Release information with Commentary in italics.

New: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum with salmon dial

• New face combining a salmon-toned dial with a platinum case
• Model available in limited annual production, reserved for Vacheron Constantin boutiques
• Prestigious in-house Calibre 1142 QP

Commentary

This new version of the Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar is now offered in a platinum case with a beautiful salmon coloured dial. The watch currently exists in platinum with a anthracite dial, and in pink gold with a cream coloured dial. What is new is the salmon dial.

The movement is the is the magnificent Caliber 1142 QP. This is a classical complication with the combination of short time measurement in the chronograph in juxtaposition with the long time measurement in the perpetual calendar. The 43mm case is a bit on the large side especially for a classically complication, and the Caliber 1142 QP is notably quite a small caliber, measuring only 27.5mm in diameter, and is consequently seen via the sapphire glass back. Also, the sub-dials seem a bit cluttered in the middle, and perhaps the movement can stand being encased as a smaller watch. Might we suggest 40mm. But we digress, the movement is rather exquisitely laid out and finished, somewhat in mitigation. And the rest of the watch – the case, dial and hands are superbly well finished, in accordance to very high VC standards.

We have not done a hands-on review of this model yet, and have requested for a session to handle and photograph the watch when it arrives in Singapore. Will report back when we do.

Press Release information

Vacheron Constantin presents a new signature timepiece combining a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph with a new face is powered by in-house Calibre 1142 QP, one of the most prestigious chronograph movements enhanced by the perpetual calendar complication and crafted in the purest tradition of Haute Horlogerie.

Since 2006, Vacheron Constantin has been renowned for its Collection Excellence Platine comprising specific limited editions made of this noble metal. In the same spirit of exclusivity, Vacheron Constantin has created a new signature model combining a salmon-coloured dial with a platinum case. This combination harks back to the great days of classical watchmaking, when coloured dials were a symbol of elegance. Vacheron Constantin continues to cultivate the same elegance in its collections thanks to a technical and aesthetic quest in which attention to detail constitutes an anatomy of beauty inherent in its timepieces. This harmonious platinum and salmon colour combination is an integral part of the Maison’s heritage, perfectly embodied in some of its historic models. It will henceforth be reserved for watches produced in limited annual quantities and destined for Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Perfect legibility

For the launch of these timepieces, the Maison presents the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph, a model symbolising the Manufacture’s technical expertise in the realm of grand complications. As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement. The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o’clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial. The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

Concern for details

In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial. Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin brushed ring with a finely snailed centre.

The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals. The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background. One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.

A prestigious calibre

To drive the functions of this watch, the case is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system.

This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours. The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks. Fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp, this watch offering chronograph and perpetual calendar functions features two of the most prestigious horological complications, while being eminently suitable for everyday use – an extremely attractive combination in the world of time measurement.

The Anatomy of Beauty®

Involving attention to details all the way to the smallest component, the elegant design of this new Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is entirely in keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 “The Anatomy of Beauty®” theme. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph Technical Specifications

Reference 5000T/000P-B975
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)
Case 950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Salmon-coloured opaline
950 Platinum moon disc
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
Blued steel chronograph and date hands
Black painted tachymeter scale
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish,
large square scales
Clasp 950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Accessory Delivered with a corrector pen
Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques