Tudor releases a slew of Black Bay watches for 2022. The main new novelty is the Black Bay Pro, a new reference. The others are model extensions in steel and gold to the Black Bay GMT, Black Bay Chrono. Here is a summary of the releases.

Press Release information with Commentary in italics.

New: Tudor novelties from Watches & Wonders 2022

Recommended retail prices:

• Tudor Black Bay Pro: Bracelet SGD 5,520. Strap (fabric and rubber/leather) SGD 5,090.
• Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G: S&G Bracelet SGD 7,710. Strap (fabric and leather) SGD 5,970.
• Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G: S&G Bracelet SGD 10,010. Strap (fabric and leather) 8,270.

Prices are inclusive of GST.

Commentary

We can broadly categorise this year’s Tudor crop into two group. The first is the new Black Bay Pro – a new reference to the Black Bay collection. This is an interesting addition as it fills the Black Bay lineup with a watch with explorer intentions, much alike its elder sister – the Rolex Explorer II. And the second group is the introduction of steel and gold models to the Black Bay GMT, Black Bay Chrono and the time only Black Bay which is available in 4 different sizes.It is with interest that we note that even though we are not usually fans of two tone watches, Tudor’s execution of the S&G additions to the Black Bay models are very nicely done. We particularly like the Black Bay GMT S&G, which looks rather sleek and luxurious without the tacky feel that is often associated with two tone watches.

The hot new Tudor for this year is the all new Black Bay Pro. This is a new technical model with a new aesthetic. The case is 39mm, and is equipped with a 24 hour fixed bezel, the orange 24 hour “Snowflake” hand. Powered by the Tudor Caliber MT5652 with GMT.

The iconic Black Bay GMT model with integrated Manufacture Calibre GMT is now also available in a S&G (Steel & Gold) version, featuring warm colours and a nostalgic touch. As mentioned, we feel this particular combination of steel, gold with the black bezel and dial looks particularly pleasing.

Black Bay GMT S&G is a model with multiple time zones, a highly functional complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated rotating bezel with two colours, representing day and night, the Black Bay GMT S&G also gives a subtle aesthetic nod to the history of this watchmaking function.

The chic chronograph in the Black Bay Chrono line is now available in steel and yellow gold. Same case, but now in with a gold bezel and when a three link bracelet with the middle link in gold when equipped. The same self-winding movement MT5813 is manufactured for Tudor by Breitling, and features a column wheel and vertical clutch, follows in the purest tradition of sporting timepieces. Though the blueprint seems similar to the other S&G models, we feel perhaps Tudor has gone a bit too far with the gold hue dial, and the watch feels a bit tacky.

In addition to these novelties, Tudor also announced extension to the Black Bay time series is not their entry level watch, but we see many parallels to Rolex’s entry level Oyster Perpetual. This is a huge collection of some 28 variants, all in steel and gold and in 4 different sizes( as opposed to the Oyster Perpetual’s 5 sizes) of 31mm, 36mm, 39mm and 41mm. Some models in this collection is endowed with diamonds on the dial or indices. In addition to these novelties, Tudor also announced a new Tudor Royal, which is a ladies watch.

Press Release information

Black Bay Pro

• Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, 39 mm in diameter, with a 24-hour graduated fixed bezel in stainless steel
• Domed dial, grained matt black, with applied hour markers in monobloc luminous ceramic
• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
• Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve
• A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather or riveted 316L steel with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp with rapid adjustment
• Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks

Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn’t imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic. The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.

Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, this new component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic. This feature enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR “T-fit” rapid size-adjustment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this model. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the “T-fit” system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.

On the Black Bay Pro model, the reference time is indicated by an angular orange “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.

Black Bay GMT Steel & Gold

• Satin-brushed and polished case in 316L stainless steel and yellow gold, 41 mm in diameter, with a bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold and insert in black and brown anodised aluminium as a hallmark of the GMT function
• Domed grained matt black dial
• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
• Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve
• A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, aged brown leather or riveted 316L steel and yellow gold
• Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks

On the Black Bay GMT S&G model, the reference time is indicated by an angular “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours.  Local time is indicated by another, shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is connected to the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A very practical and technical detail for the user. The 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and “24-hour” hand mean you can also keep track of a third time zone. On the anodised aluminium disc of the bezel, the graduations for the twelve daylight hours are gold-coloured on the brown section with the night-time hours on the black section.

Black Bay Chrono Steel & Gold

• Satin-brushed and polished case in 316L steel and yellow gold, 41 mm in diameter, with a fixed bezel in yellow gold, insert in black anodised aluminium featuring a tachymetric scale
• Domed, frosted matt black or champagne-colour sunray satin-finish dial with contrasting circular sub-counters
• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
• Manufacture Calibre MT5813 chronograph, COSC-certified, with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve, column wheel and vertical clutch
• A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, bund in dark brown aged leather or riveted 316L steel and yellow gold
• Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks

Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono S&G has adopted the famous “Snowflake” hands, a brand signature for divers’ watches since 1969, to ensure outstanding readability against the domed dial. Available in two versions, matt black or a sunray satin-finish champagne colour, the dial includes two recessed sub-counters in contrasting colours, a champagne colour and matt black respectively, for optimum legibility. The sub-counters have a circular-grained finish and, inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, feature a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o’clock. The recognisable characteristics of the Black Bay are preserved in a steel and yellow gold case with a 41-millimetre diameter. Typical of the brand’s characteristic attention to detail, the design of the yellow gold pushers has been inspired by the very first generation of TUDOR chronographs. A fixed bezel in yellow gold with an insert in black anodised aluminium with tachymetric scale, complete the distinguished appearance of this sporty chronograph.

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19^th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.

For the Black Bay Chrono S&G model, TUDOR has selected a black strap woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, entirely in keeping with the spirit of “1970s racing”, the Black Bay Chrono S&G offers another choice of bracelet: a bund in aged dark brown leather with ecru topstitching and a steel folding clasp.