Citizen released their Mechanical C0200 mechanical watch last year with their first mechanical caliber since 2010. The watch received very high praises from industry critics, including us. And for this year, Citizen decided to release another version in a dial inspired by the hammered look of a Japanese armour.

Press release information with commentary in italics.

New: The Citizen Mechanical Caliber 0200 Model NC0206-18E

Press Release details with commentary in italics.

Commentary

The new watch being introduced is the same as the launch model, with the exception of the new dial, ceramic bezel and the strap. It is also a very small limited edition series of only 90 pieces. At publishing time, the price is not determined yet, but we do not expect it to deviate much from the launch model. Thus, we highly recommend that you read our comprehensive review for the technical and historical context.

Here is our hands-on review of the Mechanical C0200.

The case remains as stainless steel with the classic Japanese styling and finishing. However, the bezel is now a ceramic one, giving the watch a more sporty look. The textured dial is made by electroforming to look like the hammer tone finish with indentations reminiscent of hammered metal, This very same inspiration is found on the Casio MRG-G2000HA “Tetsu-Tsuba”, though there two distinct differences. The Casio hammer tone finish is used on the bezel, while on the Citizen it is on the dial. Secondly, the Casio finish is performed by manually hammering the surface to give rise to its signature pitted texture, while Citizen uses electroforming to achieve a similar result. The pattern is called arashi-ji, which is translated to “rough surface”. However, Citizen uses a hand hammering technique to the strap which is made from Himeiji Kurozan, “black diamond leather”, This is created by a traditional technique of tanning and lacquering- resulting in a leather with a lustrous finish. The textured dial speaks in one voice with the textured strap, and gives this new Citizen the Japanese Armour character.

The movement is the same, high precision movement used in the launch model – the Caliber 0200. Though the movement is designed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret, a company owned by Citizen. We understand the final work is undertaken in Japan. With all manufacture, final assembly and finishing activities for the Caliber 0200 being performed in Japan. This is done by the Super Meisters in Japan. For a more detailed look at this, please look at Point 4 in our article:  Five Facts about Citizen which you may not know. The Caliber 0200 exceeds the Chronometer standard ISO 3159 benchmark for timekeeping accuracy, achieving an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds. The movement features a free sprung balance wheel. The cased movement is subjected to rigorous in-house testing over a total of 17 days to ensure superior performance. Testing is carried out under various conditions, including testing at six positions and three temperature levels.

Press Release details

CITIZEN’s The CITIZEN models provide superior precision and high quality, symbolizing the company’s never-ending pursuit of the essence of the watch. A new release from our The CITIZEN brand is a mechanical model with details inspired by Japanese armor. This unique, limited-edition model is equipped with the high-accuracy Caliber 0200 mechanical movement, developed entirely in-house by CITIZEN.

This new model is powered by a Caliber 0200 mechanical movement, developed entirely in-house by CITIZEN, and features design elements inspired by Japanese armor. Japanese armor protected warriors in battle, but their unique designs were also used to express the individuality of the wearer.

This model has a stainless steel case with a brushed finish featuring a beautiful black bezel made from zirconia ceramic, a material known for its durability and hardness. Electroforming was used to give the dial a hammer tone finish with indentations reminiscent of hammered metal. The band is made from Himeji Kurozan leather. Himeji Kurozan leather, also known as “black diamond leather,” is created using a method that fuses traditional tanning and lacquering techniques, giving cow leather a lustrous finish that brings to mind the glitter of countless diamond fragments. The process is carried out by hand, and involves repeatedly applying lacquer to the grain side and drying the leather to give it volume and a deep luster. The unique textures of the monochrome elements of this special model create an eye-catching contrast, providing an appealing look that is inspired by the functionality and decorative aspects of Japanese armor.

The Caliber 0200 movement combines both aesthetic appeal and an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the chronometer standard for accuracy, and it has a free-sprung balance wheel to ensure greater accuracy in the long-term. The beautiful finishing was made possible by the combined skills and know-how of CITIZEN and our Swiss group company Manufacture La Joux-Perret S.A.

The transparent case back reveals the 22 karat gold rotor, and an eagle mark – the symbol of The CITIZEN – can be found on the dial. The eagle mark symbolizes the twin ideals of The CITIZEN – foresight and dedication to the pursuit of ideals as well as the enduring connection between watch and wearer.
 
[Product Features]
■Solid case and dial inspired by Japanese armor
The deep black zirconia ceramic bezel has superior durability and hardness as well as a brushed finish on the surface. It contrasts beautifully with the brushed and mirror finishes on the case.
The combination of these design elements with the electroformed hammer tone finish on the dial creates a solid, formidable impression, much like traditional Japanese armor.

■”Black diamond” Himeji Kurozan leather strap
The Himeji Kurozan leather strap has a lustrous finish that brings to mind the glitter of countless diamond fragments. The leather has a deep, black luster and volume created by repeatedly lacquering and drying the leather by hand.
The unique textures of the monochrome elements create an eye-catching contrast, providing an appealing look bringing to mind the functionality and intricate decorations of Japanese armor.

■Powered by a high-accuracy Caliber 0200 mechanical movement
The Caliber 0200 movement combines both aesthetic appeal and functionality with an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the chronometer standard for accuracy.
The movement is finished using decorative techniques that combine the know-how of CITIZEN and Manufacture La Joux-Perret.
The transparent case back showcases the movement with its 22 karat gold rotor, exclusive to this limited edition model.

■The specially designed movements in The CITIZEN watches incorporate all of CITIZEN’s know-how and technology, and their assembly requires incredible skill. The manufacturing of this mechanical model is carried out completely in-house at CITIZEN, from the movement to the finishing of the watch, and each watch is hand-assembled by our team of highly skilled watchmaking meisters.

The Citizen Mechanical Caliber 0200 Model NC0206-18E specifications

Launch Autumn/Winter 2022 (scheduled)
Price(projected)
Limited quantity 90 (Worldwide)
Case / Band Stainless steel (Bezel: zirconia ceramic）/ Lacquered cowhide leather (Himeji Kurozan leather）
Glass Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
Case diameter / thickness 40.0mm / 10.9mm（ design specification only ）
Specifications Cal.0200/ Automatic & Manual winding / Accuracy of average -3 to +5sec per day / Running time of approx. 60 hours when fully wound/ Frequency: 28,800 vph / 26 jewels /W.R. 5 BAR / Transparent case back / Cal.0200 Certificate of Compliance included